Tools first, ornament second
Mongolian metalwork and leatherwork grew out of the needs of riders and herders. A saddle, a bridle, a stirrup, a knife and a bowl are all practical things, and many of them are also places where makers added decoration. The decoration tends to be firmly attached to function: silver on a saddle protects the wood and shows status, a metal rim reinforces a bowl, and a pouch on a belt holds a flint and steel as well as showing the owner’s taste.
Because the Mongolian horse culture is so central, a great deal of this craft concerns horse gear, a link we explore in our article on the horse in Mongolian culture.
Leather and horse gear
Leather work covers a broad range of items:
- Saddles. Traditional saddles have a wooden frame, often with high pommel and cantle, and are covered and trimmed in leather. Their shape differs from Western saddles, and many are built for long, steady riding rather than for show.
- Bridles, straps and ropes. Braided and stitched leather, along with horsehair rope, forms most of the tack.
- Containers. Leather bags have long been used to ferment and carry liquids, including the fermented mare milk known as airag. These containers are hung in the ger and stirred, which relates directly to the dairy side of herding life.
- Bags and pouches. Smaller leather pouches carry tools, tobacco or personal items.
- Boots. Leather is the outer layer of the traditional gutal.
Leather is prepared from hides of the five animals, and processing includes cleaning, soaking, scraping and tanning. Traditional methods use natural materials, including fermented milk products in some practices, though methods vary by region and household. Stitching can be strong, with thick thread and deliberate patterns, and appliqué or embossing adds pattern.
Silver and other metals
Metalworkers in Mongolia work in iron, steel, silver, brass, copper and sometimes gold. Common products include:
- Saddle fittings. Silver or silver-plated plates and studs on the saddle, with chased or embossed patterns.
- Stirrups and bits. Mostly iron or steel, sometimes inlaid or decorated.
- Bowls and cups. Wooden bowls with silver lining or rim are a distinctive form, and they are often given as prestigious gifts or used in ceremonies. Solid silver bowls also exist.
- Knife sets. A knife and a pair of chopsticks in a shared sheath, with decorated metal fittings, are traditionally worn at the belt.
- Fire steels and snuff bottle holders. Small decorated items carried by men, some of them heirlooms.
- Jewelry. Rings, earrings, bracelets, hair ornaments and headdresses, often set with coral, turquoise, amber or other stones. Styles differ across ethnic groups, as our article on ethnic groups of Mongolia suggests.
The silversmith’s methods include hammering and shaping, chasing and embossing designs with small punches, engraving, and filigree or applied wire. Gilding is used on some pieces. The finished work is often polished but left slightly warm in tone rather than mirror bright.
Smiths and status
In many parts of Eurasia, the blacksmith holds a special place in folklore, and Mongolian tradition has its own respect for metalworkers, who transform ore into tools. Some beliefs connect smiths with fire and with spiritual protection, which relates in a general sense to the Mongolian shamanism tradition. These are cultural ideas that vary and should be reported cautiously rather than as fixed rules. What can be said with more confidence is that smiths and silversmiths have long been recognized as skilled specialists and that their craft was often passed down within families.
What the patterns suggest
Mongolian ornament uses a rich set of repeated motifs. Meanings are often described in general terms, and they vary by region and craftsperson, so read the following as common associations:
- Endless knot. A looping shape with no beginning or end, commonly understood as standing for continuity and long life. It also belongs to the set of Buddhist auspicious symbols.
- Ram’s horn pattern. Spiral scrolls resembling a ram’s horn are among the most widespread designs and are often associated with prosperity and livestock.
- Clouds and waves. Curling cloud motifs suggest sky, rain and good fortune.
- Lotus. Often linked to purity, especially in Buddhist contexts, which ties to Mongolian Buddhism and its art.
- Dragons and animals. Dragons, birds and other creatures appear on formal pieces, and some designs show influence from neighboring cultures.
- Coin, circle and longevity shapes. Round shapes can stand for wealth or a long life.
- Hoof and horse motifs. Shapes derived from horses reflect how central the animal is.
A pattern can also simply be decoration, so be careful about reading every motif as a coded message. A maker is the best source, and many are happy to explain their favorite designs.
Buying and caring for pieces
When looking at silver or leather work:
- Ask whether silver is solid, plated or an alloy, and expect answers to vary.
- Ask who made the piece. Studio or workshop pieces often have clearer provenance than market items.
- Old or ritual pieces may be restricted from export, and the rules change, so confirm with official sources.
- Silver tarnishes. Gentle cleaning keeps it bright, and leather needs to be kept dry and out of direct heat.
- Items made from wildlife products are generally unwise to buy, and may be illegal to import into your home country.
A small, well-made item, such as a decorated knife sheath, a leather pouch or a simple ring, tells you more about the craft than a showy piece, and fits easily in a bag. Our introduction to traditional crafts offers more ideas on where to look.