Fiber from a working herd
Cashmere is the soft undercoat of goats. Goats grow it as insulation against the cold, and it is a by-product of keeping animals that herders already depend on for meat, milk and hides. That link to herding matters: Mongolian cashmere is not a luxury product that happens to come from the steppe, it is a fiber that exists because families keep goats on open pasture through very cold winters. Mongolia is widely regarded as one of the major cashmere-producing countries, but exact shares and rankings change from year to year, so it is safer to say “major” than to quote a number.
Goats are one of the five animals of the traditional herd, alongside sheep, horses, cattle (including yaks in some regions) and camels. Compared with sheep, goats are more agile and eat a wider variety of plants, including shrubs, and they are common on mountain slopes and in the Gobi.
Combing in spring
The cashmere harvest follows the animal’s natural cycle. In late winter and spring, as the weather warms, a goat starts shedding the fine undercoat. Herders comb the animals by hand with fine-toothed combs rather than shearing them. The window is limited, often falling roughly between March and May, though timing varies by region, altitude and the weather in a particular year. Combing is slow and hands-on, so goats are typically gathered into a pen, held, and combed one at a time. It usually falls to the whole family, and neighbors may help.
The combed material is a mix of fine down and coarser outer hair. Separating the two, known as dehairing, is normally done in a processing plant, though some households still sort by hand. What remains is the soft down that can be spun. Color varies, with white down typically valued because it can be dyed in many shades, while gray and brown down is also common.
The timing is awkward for herders. Spring is also birthing season, when animals are weak after winter, and the same weeks are when herders may be preparing to move camp. Our article on seasonal migration describes that yearly rhythm.
Weather, winters and the herd
Because cashmere depends on healthy animals, harsh conditions reach all the way to the fiber. A severe winter can reduce herd numbers, and the disasters known as dzud winters have in the past killed very large numbers of animals in affected areas. Herd composition has also been a subject of discussion in Mongolia, since goats graze closer to the ground than some other animals and their numbers have grown in recent decades. Researchers and officials debate how much this affects pasture, and the effects likely vary by place. The question also connects with wider concerns about climate change and grassland health.
Sheep wool
Sheep wool is the everyday fiber of the household. Sheep are typically sheared in late spring or early summer, and wool from the Mongolian breeds tends to be coarser than cashmere. Much of it is used for felt rather than spinning, since coarse, springy wool mats well. The wool becomes the thick layers that cover a ger, along with rugs, boots and blankets. Some is also spun into yarn and made into rope, bags and socks. Felt making has its own process, covered in a separate article.
Camel hair and other fibers
Bactrian camels shed their winter coat in spring, and the hair has traditionally been collected, spun and made into rope, blankets, socks and warm clothing. It is lighter and warmer than many people expect, and in some regions camel wool products are a specialty. Yak hair, in areas where yaks are kept, makes strong rope and tent material. Horse hair, taken from manes and tails, is used for rope and, importantly, for the strings and bow of the morin khuur.
From household to industry
Historically, fiber was spun on simple spindles and worked into goods for family use or trade within the region. In the 20th century, state-run factories were set up to process wool and cashmere, and the industry has since changed several times, with private companies and small workshops now working alongside larger plants. Mongolia exports a great deal of raw and semi-processed fiber, and some of it is finished into garments elsewhere. Efforts to produce more finished goods at home have been discussed for years. Company names are a poor guide, since ownership and quality change over time.
Buying cashmere sensibly
If you plan to buy a sweater or scarf, a few general points apply:
- Ask whether the item is pure cashmere or a blend, and check the label, since blends with wool or synthetic fibers are common.
- Look at the feel and the construction. A soft, even knit that does not shed heavily is a decent sign, though no single test is reliable.
- Expect prices to vary a lot between a market stall, a shop and a workshop. Price alone is a poor measure of quality.
- Cashmere fiber differs in fineness and length. Longer, finer fiber usually produces garments that pill less.
- Buying directly from a cooperative or workshop can help support makers, but it is not automatic proof of quality.
Hand-knit socks and felt slippers made from sheep or camel wool are practical, less expensive alternatives and are easy to find in markets. For a visitor in the colder months, a well-chosen wool layer is useful kit, and our packing list is a good place to start when planning clothing.