Why felt matters
Felt is wool that has been matted into a dense fabric without spinning or weaving. For a mobile household it has a lot going for it. It insulates well, sheds some water, is made from material the family already owns, and can be repaired and replaced piece by piece. A Mongolian ger relies on it more than on any other material: layers of felt over the wooden lattice and roof poles hold in heat in winter and soften the sun in summer. The structure of the home itself is described in our overview of the Mongolian ger.
The wool
Felt is typically made from sheep wool gathered at the spring or early summer shearing, with some households also shearing in fall. Mongolian sheep wool is relatively coarse, which suits felt well because the fibers grip each other when worked. Camel hair is sometimes mixed in, and yak or goat hair may be added in places where those animals are common. The exact mix depends on region and what the household has.
Freshly shorn wool is dirty and tangled. It is first shaken out and picked clean of burrs and grass, and it may be washed. Then comes the step that gives felt its character: beating the wool with long flexible sticks until it is loose, fluffy and even. This is often done on a hide or a mat, and the work is repetitive and tiring.
Layering and rolling
Traditional felt making uses a few simple tools and a lot of labor. The general steps are:
- Lay out the mat. A large reed or rope mat, or an older felt, is spread on level ground, often outside the ger in warm weather.
- Spread the wool. The prepared wool is laid out in an even layer across the mat, then another layer on top. Even spreading matters because thin spots stay weak. For a thick piece, workers add several layers, each running in a different direction.
- Wet it. Warm water, sometimes mixed with a little milk product or other additives according to household custom, is sprinkled over the wool. Wetting makes the fibers swell and allows them to bind.
- Roll it tight. The mat and wool are rolled around a pole, and the roll is tied with rope.
- Drag or press. The bundle is pulled along the ground, traditionally by a horse or camel with a rider, for a good distance, then unrolled, turned and rolled again. Repeating this several times locks the fibers together. People can also roll the bundle with their forearms or feet.
- Check and finish. The felt is unrolled and tested. If it is not dense enough, it is rolled again. The edges are trimmed, any thin patches patched, and the sheet is dried in the sun.
The whole process can take most of a day for a single large piece. Details differ between households and regions, so any description is a general outline rather than a rule.
A job for neighbors
Because the work needs many hands, felt making has traditionally been a communal event. Neighbors come to help, someone leads the riders, and the host provides food and tea. In return, the helpers can expect the same support later. It is also a social occasion, and in some places there is song and laughter attached to the work. This kind of mutual help is one of the clearest everyday examples of cooperation in nomadic life.
Timing usually follows the wool harvest, so felt making clusters in late spring and summer. Visitors who arrive then may happen to see it, but it is not a performance, and you should ask your hosts before photographing or joining in.
What felt is used for
- Ger coverings. Several layers of felt wrap the walls and roof. Felt is also used for the door cover, which can be hung and decorated.
- Floor and bedding. Thick felt mats insulate the floor, and smaller ones serve as seat cushions and bedding.
- Clothing and footwear. Hats, socks, insoles and the lining of boots are often felt, which is part of the logic of the gutal boot described in our article on hats and boots.
- Horse gear. Saddle pads and other protective pieces use felt.
- Containers and toys. Small bags and figures are made from felt, and some are made for sale.
Decoration is added after the basic sheet is done. Patterns may be stitched with thick thread in spiral and cloud shapes, or inlaid with colored pieces, and the same motifs appear in other crafts. Our introduction to traditional crafts shows how these designs repeat.
Felt in a changing world
Many families now buy factory-made felt, canvas covers or synthetic insulation, either to save labor or because a flock produces too little wool. Even so, handmade felt is still common, and some cooperatives and workshops make decorative felt goods for sale. If you buy a felt item, you can ask whether it was made by hand and from what kind of wool. Smell and texture are not reliable indicators, but pure wool felt usually feels dense, springy and slightly rough.
Felt is also surprisingly sensitive to mishandling. It can shrink or damage if soaked and dried carelessly, and it can attract moths, so craft sellers usually advise dry storage. When you pack felt slippers or similar items for travel, keep them dry and, where relevant, check current rules about bringing animal products across borders.