An Old Layer of Belief
Long before Buddhism became widespread in Mongolia, steppe peoples honored the sky, the earth, mountains, rivers and ancestors. Researchers and Mongolians themselves use different words for this older belief system, and “shamanism” is the term most outsiders know. It is not a single organized church with fixed doctrine. Practice varies by region, family and community, so any short description is a simplification.
This article gives a general introduction. It cannot speak for every community, and it avoids claims about the details of rituals that are not well established.
Tengri, the Sky
Central to older Mongolian thought is Tengri, often translated as Heaven or Sky. The phrase “Eternal Blue Sky” appears widely in historical sources and in modern speech, and it is closely tied to the idea of legitimate rule and good fortune. The sky is seen as vast, powerful and watchful, and many people still speak of it with respect.
This helps explain the importance of the color blue in ceremony, such as the blue silk scarf known as the khadag. It also helps explain why people often behave with restraint toward the landscape, avoiding actions seen as disrespectful to the earth and water.
Spirits of Place
Mountains, lakes, springs and unusual rocks or trees are often believed to have guardians or spirits. Families may regard certain peaks as protectors of a region and honor them with offerings at particular times of year. Water is generally treated with care, and many herders avoid polluting rivers and springs.
Beliefs like these are one reason cultural respect and conservation are often related in practice. It is a theme that also appears in modern efforts such as community conservation, where local custom and environmental protection can support one another, though this varies by place.
Ovoo Cairns
The ovoo is the most visible sign of these beliefs. It is a pile of stones, sometimes with branches, wooden poles, horns or other offerings, found on mountain passes, hilltops and along roads. Some are small and informal, others large and tended by a community.
Travelers are often invited to join a simple custom: walk around the ovoo clockwise, usually three times, and add a stone picked up from the ground nearby. Some people also leave a blue scarf or splash a little milk or other drink as an offering. Customs differ, so it is polite to watch what locals do or ask your driver or guide. Do not remove items from a cairn, climb on it or leave trash.
Larger ovoo ceremonies are held by communities at certain times of year, often with prayers, offerings and sometimes athletic contests. These are community events, and outsiders should join only if welcomed.
Shamans in Mongolian History
Shamans, often called bo for men and udgan for women, are traditionally understood as intermediaries between people and spirits, and they may be asked for help with illness, loss or guidance. Traditions of this kind exist across northern Eurasia, and Mongolia’s practitioners belong to a wider family of related practices.
In the twentieth century, religious life, including shamanism, was heavily restricted under the socialist era. Many practitioners were persecuted, and religious activity moved out of public view. After political change in 1990, there was a revival of both Buddhism and shamanic practice, along with new interest from outsiders. Today there are people who identify as shamans, as well as organizations and families who preserve related customs. The quality, background and intentions of those who offer services to tourists vary widely.
Living Alongside Buddhism
Tibetan Buddhism has been influential in Mongolia for centuries, and monasteries, prayer wheels, chanting and lamas are familiar parts of the landscape. See the separate discussion of Mongolian Buddhism for its history. In everyday life, many Mongolians draw on both traditions without feeling they must choose. A family might visit a monastery for a blessing, consult a lama about a good date, and also honor a mountain spirit with a milk offering.
The two traditions have influenced each other over time. Some ovoo ceremonies include Buddhist prayers, and some Buddhist customs reflect older ideas about the land. Today many people describe their beliefs as a mix, or simply as customs they inherited. Surveys of belief are hard to compare, so it is wise to avoid firm statements about how many people follow which tradition.
Everyday Customs With Spiritual Roots
Many daily habits are connected to these ideas. Examples include:
- Not stepping on the threshold of a ger and following certain rules of ger etiquette inside.
- Offering the first drops of a drink to the sky or hearth before drinking.
- Treating fire with respect and avoiding disposing of trash in it.
- Choosing days for journeys and celebrations that are considered favorable.
People differ in how strictly they follow such rules, and explanations vary. If you are unsure, ask politely.
Visiting With Respect
- Ask before photographing a ceremony, altar or practitioner.
- Do not treat sacred sites as props or tourist stops only.
- Follow local guidance on where to walk and what not to touch.
- Be cautious about paid ceremonies marketed to tourists. Consider whether you are comfortable with them and whether the participants seem to be treated respectfully.
- Do not pressure anyone to explain private beliefs.
Spiritual life in Mongolia is not a museum piece. It continues to evolve within modern families and communities, and the best approach for a visitor is quiet attention and good manners.