A sport with few rules
Mongolian wrestling, called bökh, is easy to describe and hard to master. Two wrestlers grip each other and try to make the opponent touch the ground with any part of the body other than the feet and hands. In practice, a bout ends when a wrestler’s knee, elbow or upper body touches the ground, or when he is thrown. There are generally no weight classes and no time limit, which means a lighter wrestler can win against a heavier one and a bout can last a short time or a long one.
Wrestling is one of the three manly games, together with archery and horse racing, and it is the centerpiece of the Naadam festival for many spectators. It is also held at local and provincial festivals throughout summer.
How a tournament is organized
At major events, a large number of wrestlers enter a knockout tournament. They are often described as numbering in the hundreds at the biggest national events, though the exact figure depends on the year and level. Wrestlers are paired by lot or by an official process, and winners advance through rounds until a final remains. Because a loser is out, the tournament is progressive and a few early rounds are often run at the same time at different parts of the field.
Wrestlers who win several rounds earn honorary titles, which are commonly described through animal imagery, and those titles are valued and carried for life in many cases. The details of which title corresponds to which round are specific to each event and level, so check with local organizers if you need precision. Winning a title is a point of family and regional pride.
The costume
The wrestling outfit is distinctive. It typically consists of:
- a short, tight, open-chested jacket with long sleeves, tied at the back, often called zodog
- very short briefs, often called shuudag, usually brightly colored
- traditional boots, such as the curved-toe gutal boots
- a pointed hat, sometimes worn at the start of the bout
The open front of the jacket is often explained with a story: a woman once entered a contest disguised as a man and won, and the costume was changed so that the chest is bare. Whether or not the story is accurate, it is widely told, and it is best treated as a tradition rather than documented fact. The deel, the everyday clothing of Mongolia, is quite different from the wrestling outfit, as the article on the traditional deel explains.
The ritual gestures
Wrestling is wrapped in ritual. Before a bout, wrestlers typically walk onto the field with a swaying, stylized step, and many perform what is called the eagle dance, a graceful movement with arms outstretched, slapping the thighs and swooping steps. The eagle imagery matches the animal-name titles and reflects admiration for the bird. After a victory, the winner often repeats the eagle dance and circles a ceremonial pole or banner, and the loser may pass under the winner’s raised arm as a gesture of respect. Some wrestlers also receive a dried-curd or other ceremonial offering from their supporters, though customs vary.
Each wrestler is accompanied by a second, usually called a zasuul, who helps with preparation, holds the hat, and may encourage the wrestler. Seconds are usually experienced former wrestlers. They also sing or chant a short praise, and in some events they lead the way as the wrestlers enter the field. The details differ between events.
How a bout feels
A typical bout begins with wrestlers circling and testing grips. Moves include pulling, tripping, lifting and hooking a leg to unbalance the opponent. There is no striking. Bouts can end quickly if one wrestler is thrown early, or can become a long contest of balance and stamina. Spectators often follow the action closely, and a well-executed throw brings loud approval.
Because there is no clock, the pace is unlike many Western sports. Visitors who expect a timed match may be surprised, but the quiet intensity between throws is part of the appeal.
Women’s wrestling
Wrestling at the major festivals has been men’s competition, but women’s wrestling has developed in recent years and appears in some places and events, and in training clubs. Information about the status of women’s events can change, so for current practice rely on official sources for the event you plan to attend.
Watching as a visitor
Wrestling stadiums can be crowded, hot and loud, so plan for sun and shade. Arrive early. Ask before photographing wrestlers up close, and do not step onto the field. At rural festivals, a field with a ring of spectators may replace a stadium, and you can often watch from a closer vantage point.
Many people pair wrestling with other festival experiences, including food stalls where Mongolian dumplings are common, and drinks offered by hosts. Standard Mongolian etiquette applies: greet people politely, accept offered food or drink with your right hand, and avoid stepping over anyone’s feet or belongings.
A tradition with deep roots
Wrestling is often described as one of the oldest Mongolian traditions, and sources suggest that it was practiced well before the modern state. Some accounts connect it with the days of the Mongol Empire, but detailed claims are difficult to confirm, so a careful reading is that it is long-standing and has changed over time. The modern form, with ranks, titles and organized national events, took shape in the twentieth century. For a comparison with archery and racing, see the article on the three manly games.