A race across open land
A Mongolian horse race is unlike a track race in the Western sense. There is no oval, no starting gate and no short sprint. Horses are typically gathered at a starting point far out on the grassland and ridden toward a finish line many kilometers away, with spectators gathering at the end. Distances vary by the age of the horse and by the event, and they are commonly in the range of ten to thirty kilometers. Because the course is natural ground, it can include slopes, dips and uneven footing, and conditions change with weather.
Horse racing is one of the three manly games, the set that also includes wrestling and archery, and it is held at the Naadam festival as well as at many smaller local gatherings in summer.
Horses, classes and breed
The horses are the sturdy, small-bodied steppe type that herders ride every day. They are usually not stabled and graze freely, which is part of why they are so hardy. Racing horses are often grouped into classes by age, with different distances for different age groups, and each class is judged separately. Owners may prepare their horses for weeks or months beforehand with special feeding and gentle training rides, though methods differ between families. The article on Mongolian horses covers the animal in everyday life and its role in herding.
Child jockeys
Riders are typically children, often between about five and thirteen years old. Light weight is one reason, and another is cultural: Mongolian children commonly learn to ride at a very young age, as part of growing up in herding families. The idea may sound alarming to outsiders, and it is reasonable to say that riding fast over rough ground carries risk. Falls and injuries do happen. In recent years organizers have placed more emphasis on safety, such as helmets and protective gear, but the extent to which this is applied can vary between events. If you are curious about how young people grow up around animals, the article on steppe childhood offers wider context.
Jockeys often wear brightly colored clothing and a hat or helmet, and at some events they wear numbers. After the race, the children are celebrated along with the horses.
Songs and chants
One of the most distinctive customs is the singing of a traditional song, often called the giingoo, which is sung by the young riders, commonly as they ride toward the starting point. It is a slow, solemn tune and is generally understood as a way of honoring the horses and invoking good fortune. Details of the lyrics and how they are performed vary by place, and the song is not always sung at every event.
Songs of praise are also performed for the winning horses after the race. Mongolian oral culture includes many forms of verse and song about horses, and the tradition of praising a horse by name and appearance is part of it. The musical side of Mongolian culture is covered more broadly in the articles on long song and horse head fiddle, since the horse is a powerful image in both.
Customs at the finish
When the horses arrive, spectators and officials gather to identify the placings. The top-placed horses in each class are typically honored, often with the top five receiving special recognition. Winning horses may be sprinkled or touched with fermented mare’s milk, and their sweat is sometimes scraped from their coats as a gesture of respect, while their owners are congratulated. The last horse in a class is traditionally also acknowledged, with a short humorous or consoling song in some places, though this custom is not universal so the details are best treated as local variation.
Fermented mare milk, known as airag, is a common drink at summer festivals and is often offered to guests nearby. If you are offered a bowl, it is usually considered polite to accept it with your right hand and take at least a small sip, even if you decide not to finish it.
Watching as a visitor
The finish line is usually the best vantage point, because the race itself takes place at a distance and is hard to see. Many spectators wait for hours in the sun, so water, sun protection and layers are sensible. Stay well back from the course when horses approach, as they arrive at speed and may be hard to steer. Do not cross the course or approach the animals without permission. Ask before photographing riders, especially children, and respect any requests from the family.
If you would rather ride yourself than watch, horse trekking offers a very different and much slower experience of the same animals. Note that this is not racing, and operators and routes vary in quality, so research your choices carefully.
A living tradition
Horse racing reflects the importance of the horse in nomadic life. Horses carry herders across seasonal pastures, are used for gathering livestock and appear in poetry, song and ritual. The races are a celebration of that partnership. As with any living custom, details change over time, and what you see at a village festival may differ from the national event. When in doubt, ask local organizers or your host, and treat any single description, including this one, as a general outline rather than a rulebook.