A different kind of hiking
Walking in Mongolia is less like following a national trail network and more like moving through open country. Much of the land is unfenced grassland, mountain slope or forest edge, used by herders and their animals. That freedom is a large part of the appeal, but it changes how you plan. There are few signposts, few huts and few established long-distance routes in the way hikers in the Alps or the American West might expect.
The areas visitors most often walk in include the valleys and forested hills close to the capital, the central highlands, the northern mountains around the big lake, and the high ranges of the far west. Each differs in character, as any look at Mongolian geography shows, but the planning principles are similar everywhere.
Marked trails are the exception
In most places there is no marked, maintained path. What looks like a trail may be a livestock track, a horse path or a vehicle route that fades out. Some popular areas near parks have worn paths and occasional markers, but you should not assume them. Maps can be incomplete, and place names appear in several spellings.
Practical consequences:
- Carry a proper map and a compass or GPS device, and know how to use them. A phone alone is a poor choice because batteries drain in the cold and service is unreliable.
- Download offline maps in advance and bring a spare power source.
- Read the land. Ridgelines, river valleys and distant landmarks are often more useful than a path on the ground.
- Keep notes of your route so you can retrace it if the weather closes in.
For first-time walkers, a short day walk from a camp is a gentler start than a multi-day trek with a full pack.
Weather can change quickly
The climate is continental and mountain weather is changeable. Even in summer, a sunny morning can turn to cold rain, hail or wind in the afternoon, and temperatures drop sharply at night and with elevation. Thunderstorms in open terrain are a real hazard, and exposed ridges are best avoided when clouds build. The Mongolian climate is continental, with large swings between seasons and between day and night.
Bring layers, a proper waterproof shell, warm hat and gloves, and a means of staying dry. Pack as if conditions will be colder and wetter than the forecast suggests. The general advice in the packing list applies, with extra emphasis on footwear and rain protection for walkers.
Rivers, bogs and ground conditions
Spring and early summer melt can make streams larger than they look on a map. Crossings that are simple in a dry spell can become hazardous after rain, and there are often no bridges. Boggy ground and tussocks make walking slow in some valleys, and distances covered per day are typically lower than on a maintained trail. Do not attempt a crossing you are unsure about. It is reasonable to wait, find another route or turn back.
Livestock, dogs and wildlife
Herder families keep sheep, goats, horses, cattle and sometimes camels or yaks, the five animals of the traditional herding economy. Herding dogs can be protective around camps and flocks. Give gers and animals a wide berth, avoid approaching at night, and if a dog approaches, stay calm, stand still and let the owner call it off. Walking with a local guide reduces most of these problems.
Large predators exist in the country but are rarely seen, and the typical risks for walkers are far more ordinary: weather, injury, getting lost and cold. A guide will be familiar with the local situation, and Mongolian wildlife in general is more of a pleasure to spot than a danger.
Altitude and effort
Some ranges are high enough that altitude affects fitness and sleep, and the far west includes glaciated peaks, where the Altai glaciers sit well beyond ordinary walking. Climbing in those areas is a specialist activity needing proper equipment and experience, and it is outside the scope of ordinary hiking advice.
Guided or independent
Independent walking is possible for experienced, self-sufficient hikers who are comfortable with navigation and remote travel. Most visitors do better with a local guide who knows the land, the weather and the herder families, and who can arrange logistics such as drop-offs and pack animals. Hiring guides carefully is worthwhile, and it helps to know what to look for. Whichever style you choose, tell someone your route and expected return, carry a first aid kit, and consider whether your insurance covers remote walking, which is one reason to read the policy on travel insurance closely.
Permits and respect for the land
Some areas require entry permits, particularly near borders and in strictly protected zones, and rules change. Protected area permits may be needed, so always check current requirements with official sources. Use established camping spots, carry out your rubbish, keep clear of water sources used by herders and animals, and follow the principles of Leave No Trace. When passing a ger, it is courteous to greet the family if invited, and the basics of Mongolian etiquette apply.
Pace and planning
Allow generous time. A walking day of modest length can take longer than expected in rough ground and changeable weather, and a spare day in the schedule is wise. A combination of a few days’ walking with time at a camp or with a family gives a good sense of the country without the strain of a long unsupported trek.