A big country with a thin road network
Mongolia is large and sparsely populated, and the road network reflects that. Paved roads connect the capital with some major towns and border crossings, and the length of surfaced road has been growing over time. But far more of the country is reached by unpaved routes, and in many regions travelers will spend most of the day on dirt. Exact conditions vary by year and by route, so treat this as a general picture and ask for current information close to your trip.
What a track actually is
On the open steppe and in the desert, there is often no single road. A “road” may be a set of wheel ruts across grassland, or several parallel tracks that spread out when one gets muddy or rutted. Drivers choose between them based on conditions. In places the way forward is not obvious to a visitor, and there may be few signs. Local drivers rely on experience, landmarks, GPS and conversation with herders and other drivers to find the way. Ruts, rocks, loose sand, sudden washboard surfaces and sharp dips are all common.
This is a key reason why journeys take much longer than distances suggest. An average speed that would be modest on a highway may be unachievable on a track, and a day of travel may cover less ground than you expect.
Weather and seasons
Conditions change with the weather. Summer rain can turn tracks to mud and raise rivers, making crossings difficult or temporarily impossible. Snow and ice in the colder months can block passes and slow travel. Spring thaw can leave surfaces soft. The overall pattern of the Mongolian climate affects when different routes are comfortable, and it is worth reading about the best time to visit and about the Mongolian winter if you are considering a cold-season trip. Dust and wind can reduce visibility, and in some areas fog or sudden storms appear.
A sensible traveler leaves slack in the schedule so one delayed day does not cause missed flights or connections.
Vehicles and breakdowns
Rugged four-wheel-drive vehicles and sturdy vans are common choices. Breakdowns, flat tires and getting stuck are not unusual on remote routes, and experienced drivers usually carry spares and tools and know how to make basic repairs. Help can be far away, but other drivers and herders are often willing to assist. This is one reason travel in a group of vehicles or with an experienced driver is common in remote areas.
Fuel and services
Fuel stops are located in towns and along main routes, and the distance between them can be considerable. Drivers often plan fuel carefully or carry extra. Repair shops, tire services and spare parts are concentrated in larger places. Out on the steppe, you may find only a handful of tiny settlements and a few ger households across a long stretch.
Why most visitors use local drivers
Driving yourself is possible in principle, and some people do, but for most visitors it is not recommended, for several reasons:
- Navigation off the main routes is difficult and sometimes ambiguous.
- Mechanical problems are harder to solve without local knowledge.
- Livestock, including herds that cross or stand on tracks, can appear suddenly.
- Insurance and rental terms may not cover off-road driving, so read them closely.
- Emergency help is far away and mobile service is patchy.
A local driver brings knowledge of conditions, the language, and relationships with families along the way. See the article on hiring drivers and guides for general criteria. If you do choose to drive, be realistic about experience, bring detailed maps, recovery equipment and enough water, fuel and food, and check the rules about licenses and permits.
Driving in and around the capital
Even near Ulaanbaatar, traffic can be heavy, and roads out of the city may be crowded with trucks. Night driving is best avoided on rural roads, since animals, unlit vehicles and potholes are hard to see. Seat belts should be worn, and drivers should not be pressured into unsafe speed to meet a schedule.
Flights and rail as alternatives
Where distances are great, many visitors combine road travel with domestic flights or rail. The article on domestic travel compares options, and the trans-Mongolian railway offers an alternative along one major corridor. Saving time on a long leg can leave more room for the places you actually want to see.
Setting expectations
Roads are part of the Mongolian experience. A long drive across open country, with changing scenery and stops at family gers, is for many travelers a highlight. Come prepared for bumps, dust and slow progress, keep a flexible mind, and follow your driver’s judgment on whether a route is safe on a given day.