What a steppe is
A steppe is a large, mostly treeless grassland found in the temperate interior of a continent. The word comes from Russian, and the steppe belt runs across Eurasia from eastern Europe through Central Asia and into Mongolia and northern China. Mongolian steppe is some of the largest remaining open grassland in the world, and it forms the backdrop of much of the country’s history and daily life.
Steppe is different from a tropical savanna, which is warm all year, and from desert, which gets far less rain. The steppe has cold winters, warm to hot summers and limited, uneven rainfall, most of it falling in summer. That climate suits grasses better than trees.
Why there are so few trees
Visitors often ask why an area with green summer grass has no forest. There is rarely a single reason, and experts emphasize different factors. The most common explanations include these.
- Low and variable rainfall. Grass roots are shallow and spread, catching light showers quickly. Young trees need reliable moisture over many years to get established.
- Cold, dry winters. Wind, frost and a lack of snow cover can harm tree seedlings.
- Short growing season. Warm weather lasts only a few months.
- Fire. Dry grass burns easily, and grasses regrow quickly afterward, while young trees can be killed.
- Grazing and browsing. Wild and domestic animals eat or trample seedlings.
Trees do exist on the steppe, but only in favored spots: north-facing slopes, valleys, river banks and places with extra moisture. That is why the boundary between forest and grassland, the forest-steppe, often looks like a patchwork. The pattern of Mongolian landscapes shows grassland gradually replacing forest as you move south and east.
What grows there
Steppe vegetation is dominated by perennial grasses, many forming tufts, along with sedges and herbs. Most of the growth happens in summer, when rain falls. By fall the grass dries and turns golden, and in winter it stands as standing hay that animals can still eat if snow is not too deep. This feature is part of why herding works here: dried grass keeps much of its feeding value through the cold months. Specific species vary by region, and Mongolian flora includes many flowering herbs as well.
Grazers and the grassland
Grasslands and grazing animals have evolved together for a very long time. Grasses are adapted to being eaten: they grow from the base, so they can regrow after being cropped. Wild grazers such as the Mongolian gazelle roam the plains, and the movements of the gazelle migration across the eastern steppe are among the most remarkable wildlife spectacles in the country, although seeing it is never guaranteed. Burrowing animals including steppe marmots and small rodents shape the ground, and their burrows shelter other creatures. Birds of prey hunt over open plains, and wolves are the main large predator. Dozens of species rely on the grasses and the animals they support.
Domestic livestock now share the same grasses. Horses, sheep, goats, cattle (including yaks in some areas) and camels graze across the steppe, the five animals that define herding life. Each eats grass somewhat differently, which allows a mixed herd to use a pasture efficiently: horses and sheep graze quite short, cattle prefer taller grass, goats browse shrubs and tough plants, and camels take shrubs and salty plants. Herders tend to value this variety.
Steppe and herding life
Because rainfall is patchy, grass quality varies from place to place and year to year. People adapted by moving their animals through the year, following the grass and water, a pattern known as seasonal migration. A ger can be taken down and moved, which is why this home type fits the landscape so well. In winter, families often camp in sheltered spots, such as valleys or places near hills, away from the worst of the wind. Seasonal pasture rights shape who uses which area at which time, and customs about access are an important part of nomadic life.
The open steppe also shaped history. Mounted herders could cover large distances, and the grassland supported many horses, which helped create the conditions for large steppe states and empires.
Seeing the steppe as a visitor
Steppe travel can feel monotonous to some people and magical to others. Long views, huge skies and quick-changing weather are the main features. Summer brings green grass and many flowers; fall brings gold; winter is cold and stark. The eastern steppe has some of the emptiest country, and the eastern steppe reserves protect representative areas. Distances are hard to judge by eye, and tracks can multiply across open ground, so a local driver or guide is helpful.
A note on fragility
The steppe looks tough, but it is sensitive to heavy use, drought and disturbance. Driving off the track compacts soil and can leave scars that last years. Please stay on established routes, respect herders’ fences and pasture, and carry out your rubbish. Questions about warming and grazing pressure are discussed under climate change, where the evidence is mixed and uncertain.